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Maria Stabel >
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«gut» Der Anfang ist Weisses Gold
St. Gallen (CH) > 22.04.2022 – 29.01.2023
St. Gallen kann auf eine viele hundert Jahre währende Textilgeschichte zurückblicken, die ihren Anfang im Mittelalter nimmt. Die hohe Qualität begründet einst den Ruhm der St. Galler Leinwand; als «Weisses Gold» wird sie zu einem Mythos, der bis heute nachwirkt. Die Konzept- und Aktionskünstler Frank und Patrik Riklin vom St.Galler Atelier für Sonderaufgaben nehmen textile Traditionen auf und verleihen ihnen mit «Bignik», einer jährlich wachsenden sozialen Skulptur, neue Bedeutung. In einer freien künstlerischen Interpretation verbindet Martin Leuthold, selbst Ikone zeitgenössischer Textilgestaltung, textile Vergangenheit und Gegenwart und kreiert eine raumgreifende Installation, die vom 22. April 2022 bis zum 29. Januar 2023 im Textilmuseum St. Gallen zu sehen ist.
Weisses Gold
Seit dem 13. Jahrhundert zählt die Leinwandproduktion zu den wichtigsten Einnahmequellen der Stadt und Region St. Gallen. Zehntausende Menschen beschäftigen sich mit dem Weissen Gold: dem Anbau von Flachs, dem Spinnen von Garn sowie dem Weben, Bleichen und Veredeln der Tücher. Dass die Leinwand über alle Produktionsstufen hinweg den höchsten Ansprüchen genügt, darüber wachen Zünfte und städtische Behörden. Mit einem «G» bezeugen sie die Herkunft («St. Gallen») – in mancher Lesart auch die Qualität («Gut») – der für den Fernhandel bestimmten Textilartikel. Als das Leinwandgewerbe im 18. Jahrhundert unter Druck gerät, beginnt sich die Textilregion St. Gallen neu auszurichten – und bringt zuerst die Baumwollverarbeitung, später dann die Stickerei zur Blüte.
Bignik
Die Leinwand-Zeit hat vor Jahrhunderten ein Ende gefunden und mit ihr sind die zum Bleichen auf den Wiesen ausgelegten Stoffbahnen verschwunden. Und doch sind die Hügel um St. Gallen heute wieder mit Tuch bedeckt – zumindest sporadisch. «Gemeinsam ein riesiges Picknick-Tuch für die ganze Bevölkerung erschaffen, bestehend aus 293‘438 Tüchern, exakt so viele wie die Einwohnerzahl der Region.» Das ist die Vision der Brüder Frank und Patrik Riklin vom Atelier für Sonderaufgaben, die im Jahr 2012 gemeinsam mit der REGIO Appenzell AR-St. Gallen-Bodensee das Projekt «Bignik» ins Leben rufen und seitdem Jahr für Jahr eine Auslegung an unterschiedlichen Orten in der Region initiieren.
Nach 10 Jahren Sammeln und Nähen wird die Stadt St. Gallen 2022 zum Auslegungsort: Weiss stösst auf Rot, Wirtschaft auf Kultur, Geschichte auf Leben. Aus diesem Anlass zeigt das Textilmuseum St. Gallen die Ausstellung «GUT» Der Anfang ist weisses Gold», in der sich textile Vergangenheit und Gegenwart zu einem visuellen Gesamtkunstwerk verbinden.
Text- und Bildquelle: Museumswebsite
Veranstalter/ Ort
Textilmuseum St. Gallen
Vadianstrasse 2
9000 St. Gallen
Schweiz
weitere Infos: www.textilmuseum.ch/weisses-gold/
1000 pieces of jewellery
Stockholm (S) > bis auf weiteres
The exhibition’s 1,000 pieces of jewellery are divided into different sections. In some cases they are on display because we know about the people who wore them, in others because they represent a period, a historical epoch, a fashion, a function or a material. The largest section with the most items of jewellery is on Fashion, status and identity. This displays many necklaces, bracelets, pendants, brooches, earrings, rings and matching sets. The section In joy and sorrow displays rings as symbols of fidelity, mourning and memorial jewellery and bridal crowns. Jewellery and hair contains jewellery made of, containing and for the hair, while Magic and symbolism shows jewellery which has had a magical significance, considered to bring the wearer luck or offer protection from illness, accidents or the forces of evil. The section Hold tight displays clasps, buckles, cufflinks, tie clips, buttons, breastpins, hat pins, lacing rings, scarf holders and belt chains, etc., all with a practical function for keeping a costume or hairstyle in place. The section Highlights shows possibly the most exciting objects in the museum’s jewellery collection. These include the jewellery that Gustav Banér gave as a parting gift shortly before he was decapitated in the Linköping Bloodbath of 1600, the rings that Gustav III handed out as PR material after his coup in 1772 and the ring bearing the first known portrait of the famous Årsta Lady. The exhibition also features a timeline on the history of style.
Textquelle: Museumswebsite
Bildquelle: Museumswebsite
Veranstalter/ Ort
Nordiska Museet
6 Djurgårdsvägen
Stockholm
Schweden
weitere Infos: www.nordiskamuseet.se/en/utstallningar/jewellery
Online Ausstellungen des Fashion History Museums, Cambridge, Ontario
Online > dauerhaft
BES BEN: THE MAD HATTER OF CHICAGO >
FASHIONING CANADA SINCE 1867 >
THE HOUSE OF DIOR: 1947 - 1962 >
CANADIAN FASHION STORY: PAT MCDONAGH >
Veranstalter
Fashion History Museum
74 Queen Street East
Cambridge, Ontario
Kanada
weitere Infos: www.fashionhistorymuseum.com/digital-exhibits
Dressing with Purpose: Belonging and Resistance in Scandinavia
Santa Fe (USA) > 05.12.2021 - 19.02.2023
Dressing with Purpose examines three dress traditions today—Swedish folkdräkt, Norwegian bunad, and Sámi gákti—in light of more than two centuries of social and political change across Scandinavia. Starting in the 19th century, many in Sweden worried about the ravages of industrialization, urbanization, and emigration on traditional ways of life. Norway was gripped in a struggle for national independence. Indigenous Sámi communities—artificially divided by national borders and long resisting colonial control—rose up in protests that sparked cultural renewal and demanded political recognition. Throughout, people have put on special clothing to communicate powerful messages of unity and opposition, to fight for self-determination, and to make purposeful connections with the past. The creative reworking of tradition continues today with dress revivals, reconstructions, and inventions.
Textquelle: Museumswebsite
Bildquelle: Museumswebsite
Veranstalter/ Ort
Museum of International Folk Art
706 Camino Lejo, on Museum Hill
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87505
USA
weitere Infos: www.internationalfolkart.org/exhibition/2892/dressing-with-purpose-belonging-and-resistance-in-scandinavia
The Costume Collection at Tullie House
Carlisle (GB) > Dauerausstellung
The Costume Collection at Tullie House boasts two stunning new galleries dedicated to the display of the Museum’s amazing fashion and textile collection. The galleries feature over forty outfits and accessories that tell the stories of some of the women who have lived, loved and worked in Carlisle over the past 350 years – from the infamous Carlisle ‘miser’ Margery Jackson to lesser known stories of Land Army girls, factory workers, nurses, radicals, homemakers and artists. The outfits range from the rare and beautiful to the practical and familiar but each one gives us an insight into the life and identity of the person they belonged to.
These brand-new galleries shine a light on hidden stories and identities. They celebrate the extraordinary – rare outfits, intricate and beautiful dresses marking special moments in time – and the ‘ordinary’ – practical outfits worn by working women over the centuries. The galleries also include an innovative digital art installation inspired by the history of Carlisle as a ‘textile city’ and feature the voices of some of the Museum’s visitors and community partners. Through beautiful architectural design and innovative displays, these stunning new galleries will provide a brand-new visitor experience. The Costume Collection at Tullie House will be one of the largest dedicated costume galleries in the North of England, celebrating a remarkable and rarely-seen fashion collection that features items of national significance.
Textquelle: Museumswebsite
Bildquelle: Museumswebsite
Veranstalter/ Ort
Tullie House Museum & Art Gallery
Castle Street,
Carlisle
Cumbria, CA3 8TP
GB
weitere Infos: www.tulliehouse.co.uk/collections/costume-and-textiles
The Beautiful Collection: Prince's Custom Shoes
Minnesota (USA) > ab. 07.09.2021
Experience the sensational shoes of the Purple One himself.
Vibrant colors. Intricate designs. Edgy elegance. Like everything else Prince touched, his custom shoes are expertly crafted and visionary works of art. Come see over 300 pairs, from his iconic 4-inch boots to his suede light-up roller skates, and marvel at how Prince’s bold style continues to impact fashion to this day.
Text- und Bildquelle: Paisley Park
Veranstalter/ Ort
Paisley Park
7801 Audubon Road
Chanhassen, Minnesota 55317
USA
weitere Infos: www.paisleypark.com/exhibitions/shoes
The Roaring Twenties and The Swinging Sixties
Online > ab 15.03.2021
The Fashion Institute of Technology's School of Graduate Studies and The Museum at FIT (MFIT) present The Roaring Twenties and The Swinging Sixties, a virtual exhibition comparing the fashions of the twenties and sixties, both periods of significant crisis and change. Organized by students of FIT’s Master of Arts program, Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, and Museum Practice, the show features twenty-six objects from the permanent collection of MFIT and fashion illustrations from FIT’s Gladys Marcus Library Special Collections and College Archives (SPARC). It is supplemented with archival photographs that further demonstrate the parallels between the fashion of the two decades. The process of creating an exhibition is a unique experience and a key feature of the Fashion and Textiles Studies graduate program at FIT. For the first time, this student-led project is presented solely online, with the class working together remotely.
The Twenties and the Sixties each brought about new ideas of the “modern woman” which impacted fashion in remarkably similar ways. These similarities are explored through six thematic sections: Twenties Nostalgia; Dreams and Discontent; Obsession with Youth; Music Mania; Cultural Appropriation; and Mode and Modernity. The shared spirit of the times, whether in art, music, technology, social movements and upheaval, or cultural inspiration, is highlighted by paired objects with discernible visual similarities.
Textquelle: Museumswebsite
Bildquelle: Museumswebsite
Veranstalter/Ort
Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
227 West 27th Street
New York City 10001-5992
USA
weitere Infos: www.fitnyc.edu/museum/exhibitions/roaring-and-swinging.php
Shoephoria!
Bath (GB) > ab 29.03.2021 (Dauerausstellung)
Our stunning new display feature showcasing some of the highlights and curiosities of the Museum’s world-class collection of more than 3,000 pairs of shoes will go on show from Monday 29 March 2021.
Demonstrating the creativity of shoemakers throughout history, more than 100 pairs of shoes and boots will be displayed, over half of which have never been on show before.
From the oldest shoes in the collection to shoes belonging to Her Majesty Queen Mary, from trainers and sneakers to designer shoes by Vivienne Westwood, Versace and Jimmy Choo, the Museum’s shoes on display will document the evolution of shoe style over the last 300 years.
Shoes will be interspersed with the fashions on display as part of the A History of Fashion in 100 Objects exhibition, celebrating fashion from the 1600s to the present day.
Textquelle: Museumswebsite
Bildquelle: Museumswebsite
Veranstalter/ Ort
Fashion Museum Bath
Assembly Rooms, Bennett Street,
Bath BA1 2QH
England
weitere Infos: www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/events/shoephoria
Sneakers Unboxed: Studio to Street
London (GB) > ab 30.04.2021
Know your Air Jordans from your Air Force 1s? Step up and discover the footwear phenomenon that has challenged performance design, inspired new subcultures and shaken the world of fashion. Cult classics, limited edition silhouettes and rare colourways are put under the spotlight. Go behind the scenes and explore the design processes for the most innovative kicks from self-lacing to 3D printed, 100% recyclable or cushioned with air bubbles. Sneaker design has sparked a dedicated group of 'sneakerheads' all over the world, produced a reselling market worth $2 billion and revolutionised our relationship with sportswear. Uncover style icons and brand collaborations that have shaped the sneaker scene including models by Nike, Adidas, Puma, Colette and Comme des Garçons as well as new releases such as the MSCHF Studio's 'Jesus Shoes'.
Textquelle: Museumswebsite
Bildquelle: Museumswebsite
Veranstalter/ Ort
The Design Museum
224-238 Kensington High Street
London W8 6AG
GB
weitere Infos: designmuseum.org/exhibitions/sneakers-unboxed-studio-to-street
British – ever so Nordic
Stockholm (S) > 05.02.2019 until further notice
Nordiska Museet in Stockholm shows how Nordic fashion, clothes styles and lifestyle are influenced by Britain’s creative industry. The narrative runs from the Middle Ages to the present day, illustrated through fabrics, patterns, clothes and phenomena that have been shaped into a part of everyday life in Scandinavia. British: Ever So Nordic.
Cardigan, jumper and trench coat. Tartans and Doc Martens boots. Flowery wallpaper, pajamas and a cup of tea. Football, tennis and a stroll in the woods wearing wellingtons. These are such commonplace elements of our everyday life that we may not reflect on where they come from. With Brexit around the corner, Nordiska museet in Stockholm shows how centuries of trade relations with Britain have affected Nordic fashions and lifestyle. There are numerous points of contact between Sweden and Britain, and in many ways there is a shared outlook.
Textquelle: Museumswebsite
Bildquelle: Museumswebsite
Veranstalter/ Ort
Nordiska Museet
6 Djurgårdsvägen
Stockholm
Schweden
weitere Infos: www.nordiskamuseet.se/en/utstallningar/british-ever-so-nordic
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